If you have ever seen a Mughal miniature painting and noticed the jewellery worn by the emperor or empress, you have seen Jadau. If you have ever attended a North Indian wedding and watched the bride enter the mandap weighed down with heritage gold and uncut diamonds, you have seen Jadau.
What Is Jadau?
Jadau is a traditional Indian jewellery-making technique where uncut precious stones — primarily diamonds (Polki), but also emeralds, rubies, and sapphires — are embedded into a 22 or 24-carat gold foundation. The technique requires no glue and no claws. The stones are held in place purely by skilled manipulation of the gold itself.
The word 'jadau' derives from the Hindi word 'jad,' meaning 'embedded.' Every Jadau piece is, quite literally, jewellery in which the stones are part of the gold rather than attached to it.
The Mughal Origin
Jadau was brought to India by the Mughals in the 16th century. The Mughal courts cultivated Jadau in two centres that remain its capitals today: Jaipur and Bikaner. Royal patronage created a multi-generational karigar class that has passed the craft through twenty or more generations.
The Anatomy of a Jadau Piece
- The gold foundation: structural base of every Jadau piece is 22 or 24-carat gold, shaped by hand.
- The Polki stones: signature element. Uncut, naturally-shaped diamonds are the primary tradition.
- The Kundan setting: once the stones are placed in their cavities, pure gold foil is heated and pressed around each stone.
- The Meenakari reverse: elaborate enamel work turning every piece into a two-sided artwork.
The Time and Labour Required
A single bridal Jadau set typically requires:
- Three to six months of total production time
- Five to seven specialist karigars working in sequence
- Fifteen to twenty thousand individual hand operations
- Multiple kiln firings for the Meenakari component
A single bridal set can range from Rs 15 lakh to over Rs 1 crore.
Regional Variations
- Jaipur Jadau: elaborate Meenakari and Persian-influenced floral motifs.
- Bikaner Jadau: known for its lightness and intricate jaali (lattice) work.
- Hyderabadi Jadau: Nizam-era influence; geometric patterns and pearl integration.
- Punjabi Jadau: bolder, more colourful, often featuring larger stones.
How to Recognise Authentic Jadau
- 22 or 24-carat gold foundation.
- Genuine certified Polki stones, not glass.
- Hand-applied Meenakari on the reverse.
- Slightly irregular hand-felt finish — machine-made imitations are too uniform.
The IIJA Frame
The IIJA Honours recognise Jadau through the Heritage Revival Collection of the Year, the Bridal Collection of the Year, the Couture Collection of the Year, and the Master Karigar Award.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Jadau jewellery? Jadau is a traditional Indian jewellery technique where uncut precious stones are embedded into a 22 or 24-carat gold foundation using the Kundan setting method.
Where does Jadau come from? Jadau was introduced to India by the Mughals in the 16th century. Jaipur and Bikaner are its primary craftsmanship centres.
How is Jadau different from Kundan? Kundan refers specifically to the gold-foil setting technique. Jadau is the broader jewellery style that uses Kundan setting with uncut Polki stones, gold foundation, and Meenakari reverse — combining multiple traditions in a single piece.
How much does Jadau cost? A bridal Jadau set typically ranges from Rs 15 lakh to over Rs 1 crore, depending on the uncut diamond quality, gold weight, and craftsmanship intricacy.
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