In a quiet workshop in old Jaipur, an 84-year-old man sits cross-legged on the floor. He has not used a chair in sixty-five years. In his right hand is a tool his grandfather made for him when he was eleven years old. Between his fingers, a sheet of 24-carat gold so thin it floats. None of the people who will see, photograph, or wear the finished piece will know his name. This is the story of the karigar — India's most invisible artist.
Who Is a Karigar?
The word karigar — derived from Persian — translates roughly as 'one who has a craft.' In the Indian jewellery context, the karigar is the master craftsman who actually makes the jewellery. Not the brand owner. Not the designer who draws the sketch. Not the retailer who sells it. The hands that turn gold into ornament.
Indian jewellery's most celebrated traditions — Polki, Kundan, Meenakari, Jadau, Thewa, Filigree, Temple jewellery — exist only because of karigars.
The Lifelong Apprenticeship
- Years 1–3: watching. The young apprentice sits with a master, observing without touching.
- Years 4–7: auxiliary work. Polishing, preparing materials, holding pieces steady.
- Years 8–12: first independent work — usually simpler pieces, with the master inspecting every output.
- Years 13–20+: mastery. The karigar develops their distinctive hand — a style of engraving, setting, or finish that other karigars can recognise.
By the time a karigar is considered a master, they have typically given thirty years to the craft.
The Six Trades Within the Craft
A single piece of Polki jewellery typically passes through six specialist karigars:
- Designer (Naqsh-band): draws the design and creates the template.
- Goldsmith (Sonar): shapes the gold structure.
- Kundan-saz: sets the uncut diamonds (polki) using traditional kundan technique.
- Meenakar: applies the enamel work — usually on the reverse side, so the piece is beautiful even when not worn.
- Jadiya: embeds the precious stones into the structure with absolute precision.
- Chillai-wala: polishes the finished piece.
Each of these roles is itself a multi-decade specialisation.
The Karigar's Economic Reality
The karigar who spends a month on a single bridal necklace typically receives a fraction of the retail price — often less than the making charge added at retail. The piece they made is sold for fifteen times what they were paid to make it. This economic reality has consequences. Karigar families increasingly do not encourage their children to enter the craft.
What's Being Done
- Named credit on certifications accompanying high-value pieces.
- Direct compensation models — brands working with karigar families on profit-sharing.
- Training subsidies funding formal apprenticeship programmes.
- Heritage documentation through photography, video, and oral history projects.
The Master Karigar Award
This is why the IIJA Honours include the Master Karigar Award. Not as a footnote. As one of the most important categories on the list — placing the karigar on the same stage as the CEOs, the brand founders, and the retail giants of the industry.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a karigar in Indian jewellery? A karigar is the master craftsman who actually makes the jewellery — distinct from the designer, brand owner, or retailer.
What are the main karigar trades in Polki jewellery? Polki jewellery typically involves six specialist karigars: Naqsh-band (designer), Sonar (goldsmith), Kundan-saz (stone setter), Meenakar (enamellist), Jadiya (stone embedder), and Chillai-wala (polisher).
How long does it take to become a master karigar? Traditional karigar mastery typically takes 20–30 years, beginning with childhood apprenticeship and progressing through multiple supervised stages.
Why is the karigar tradition at risk? Economic pressure, low recognition, and limited succession have led many karigar families to discourage their children from entering the trade — putting centuries-old techniques at risk.
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